Easton EA90 RT - slangeløst hjulsett

Hvorfor ikke bare kjøpe et par med ultegrahjul? På Bikeshop koster de 2500. Holdbare og klare til slangeløst. veier 1650 gram.

Brede og slangeløse hjul er bedre enn smale slangehjul nesten uansett. Ta Eastonhjulene så er du fortsatt litt i forkant av den neste trenden. I tillegg til de genuine fordelene selvsagt. Søk litt på forumet så får du treff på dette der jeg roser brede felger og slangeløse dekk.

LarsB

Vet du om DA c24 7900 eller 9000 er klargjort for slangeløst?

. I tillegg blir det vel også noen hundre gram tyngre med selve tubeless-dekkene + guffe, enn med clincher-dekk+slange.

I rode the C24 tubeless for a year before selling them a couple of months ago. I then bought the C24 clincher (9000). Plus I've also bought the new C50's--now THAT is a great wheelset.

As for the tubeless, the benefits are fewer punctures, reduction in potential for sudden air loss (blow outs--particularly comforting if you've ever had a blow out on a high speed descent). A tubeless tire will not come loose from the rim. You can ride it flat, slowly, but you can keep moving. You can't get pinch flats because there's no tube. I never had problems with that anyway. The marketing says that you can ride lower pressures (no pinch flat danger). The lower pressures I've seen talked about in the marketing are 100 psi, maybe 90. I typically ride 90-100 psi anyway (again, I've never had a pinch flat). Marketing says the ride is superior due to less friction owing to no tube/tire interaction (since there's no tube). I guess I'm not particularly sensitive to that kind of thing because I didn't notice a difference. On the other hand, I have a friend that LOVES the ride, claims it's a huge difference. I just didn't notice.

Downers: tires are difficult to mount, lot's of work required when you're new to it. There are different tricks to mounting the tires which you'll learn over time. Beware the first effort, though, if you go the tubeless route. It can be exaspearating. Get a lesson from the shop where you buy.

Shimano says to not use sealant. Which is goofy as it eliminates one of the biggest benefits of tubeless--fewer flats. You cannot use Stan's with the Shimano road wheels as Stan's interacts negatively with the rim finish. Bontrager has a new sealant that's supposed to be safe to use with about any wheelset. I repeat: DO NOT USE Stan's sealant with Shimano road wheels; it affects the rim and voids the warranty. Use other sealants at your own risk as far as the Shimano warranty goes (in the USA, at least). There are several others to look at including Bontrager, Caffelatex, and Hutchinson's Protect'Air Max. I am not recommending any of them--you'll have to get advice from your shop. Make sure they clear whatever they recommend with the mfg's warranty.

If you have a flat with a tubeless/sealant combo the sealant escapes from the puncture point and squirts all over everything until the puncture seals. It cleans off with water and some effort, but it's a hassle. I had it all over the back of the seat stay, chain stays, under the saddle, etc.

If you ever have a flat on the road that the sealant won't seal, good luck. It can be fixed by putting a tube in, or patching the tire from the inside with a patch, but dealing with the 2-4 oz of liquid sealant splashing over everything, and then re-mounting the tire--I can only imagine how big a headache (and mess) that would be. I never had it happen, but there will be an instance where a hole's too big to seal and an alternative will have to be done. You'd have to use CO2 to properly re-seat the tire. Not a big deal, but a hand pump won't work.

Replacing tires was always a huge hassle as the old sealant has to be cleaned out of the bead. It's goopy and runny at the same time and it's at least an hour's worth of work to clean the stuff out of the bead. And they're finicky as heck. . . sometimes there's just that point in the tire/bead juncture that just does NOT want to seal.

You need a compressor to seat the tubeless tires (at least it's a lot easier if you do. I hear some people can do it with a hand pump; stronger men than I. Maybe they're just a myth?). No big deal if you already have a compressor (I have one). You can use CO2 cartridges instead. The tires need a sudden/strong blast of air to seat the bead.

After switching back to clinchers it won't surprise you to know that on the first ride I had a flat; but they're so easy to fix. I still didn't regret going back for more than a half a minute. I don't know if they'll catch on in a big way, or what improvements might be made as time goes on. There are a couple of new tire choices now, and several wheel makers are on board. I'm perfectly okay with clinchers for the time being.

Tja... skal man ta det letteste fra begge verdener er det vel kanskje mer relevant å sammenligne med Conti Supersonic slange (50g) + Conti TT dekk (175g) = 225g, vs. atom tubeless (250g) + ventil (5g) + guffe (20g) = 275g, per dekk (vekter tatt fra bikeshop).

Så da blir det ~170 gram ekstra totalt for tubeless (dekk + felger), ikke mye men det kan fort koste noen tusenlapper å ta igjen vekta på andre deler Når det er sagt, kanskje man gutser på å ha med 0/1 reserveslange med tubeless i stedet for 1/2 med clincher og sparer det inn der igjen

Men det er vel mer relevant å sammenligne delene man faktisk ville brukt i et vanlig tilfelle, og hvordan følelsen på veien er.

tires are difficult to mount, lot's of work required when you're new to it

You need a compressor to seat the tubeless tires

Replacing tires was always a huge hassle as the old sealant has to be cleaned out of the bead. It's goopy and runny at the same time and it's at least an hour's worth of work to clean the stuff out of the bead.

If you have a flat with a tubeless/sealant combo the sealant escapes from the puncture point and squirts all over everything until the puncture seals.

If you ever have a flat on the road that the sealant won't seal, good luck. It can be fixed by putting a tube in, or patching the tire from the inside with a patch, but dealing with the 2-4 oz of liquid sealant splashing over everything, and then re-mounting the tire--I can only imagine how big a headache (and mess) that would be. I never had it happen, but there will be an instance where a hole's too big to seal and an alternative will have to be done. You'd have to use CO2 to properly re-seat the tire. Not a big deal, but a hand pump won't work.