Hvor stive sideveis er Zipp 404 ?

Vil det si at FFWD F6R er stivere enn Zipp 404 Firecrest tubular?
Jeg har FFWD selv, og er kanonfornøyd med disse. Zipp har vel 20 eiker bak, mens FFWD har 24, så noe kan ligge her.

Jeg er 181cm og veier vel 69-70 kg.

First of all, lateral wheel stiffness represents how much the wheel will deform under a load. This is basically how much you rim will move laterally, near the ground, when you stand on the bike. The stiffer the wheel, the lower the deviation of course. The stiffer the wheel, the better your accelerations (inertia apart).
Second, deviation between the brake pads is more or less the 180° rim deflection measured on a lateral stiffness bench. It is about 1/5th the lateral stiffness.

The wheel stiffness and the 180° deflection are working together through the spoking, the rim stiffness playing the most important role, the type of spoking has a good effect too.
The stiffer the wheel, the more deflection you will find between your brake pads.

This translates into 3 things:
1. your wheel is flexy: the rim deforms a lot near the ground, though this deflection does not translate as a deflection between the brake pads because the rim is flexy and somewhat "absorbs" the load. Also the spoking certainly can't hold the rim enough in place.
2. your wheel stiffness is quite standard, from moderately stiff to stiff: the deflection near the ground is not extremely low nor extremely high, but the rim is stiff enough to make a deformation too between the brake pads.
3. your wheel is extremely stiff: the deflection at the ground is very low, rim and spoking are very rigid too so the deflection between the brake pads is a quite high %age of it. Anyway you can't even perceive the brake pad rim deflection because it is too low.

From what you say, I can tell you the ZIPP 808 is from category 2. The other shallower wheelset is definitely from category 1 unless this is a very special rim.
Since you are a strong rider, you absolutely need wheels from category 3. Avoid wheels from category 1 for one reason: although they will deliver you a good stiffness perception, they won't be performant and won't come with a good durability because the rim moves too much left/right near the ground which will increase spokes fatigue.
Wheels from category 3 are basically stiff full carbon wheels like Mavic CCU, LW Sprints, custom wheels with deep/stiff rims and absolutely strong spokings (32 DT Competition).

Of course you must avoid the super light rims with standard drillings/spokings. Avoid the ENVE 25/45/65 rims because they are very flexy and only available with 20-24 spokings now. The same for Reynolds, though a 46 or 66 built with 28 or even 32 spokes as custom will be OK. Zipp rims, 303/404/808 are fine as long as they have a stronger spoking too: 28/32 or 32/32.

Zipp kjører 20 eiker bak standar og FFWD kjører 24. Jeg er ikke noen hjulexspertt, men kjøpte selv FFWD pga flere eiker. Da mine tidligere zipp subbet i bremsene med max anstrengelser. Har ikke fått prøvd FFWD enda, de ligger hjemme klar til bruk.

Zipp kan fåes med 24 eiker, men har sjelden sett de inne på lager.

Viktig at du får satt eikespennet korrekt i henhold til din vekt

Jeg har hørt et rykte at vår mann Thor måtte åpne bremsen bak når han skulle spurte...

Halvparten av SRAM- og Shimanobremsene jeg ser er løsnet. Er det fordi ballongsyklistene skal spurte?

Hvis det er viktig med veldig stive hjul så kan du vurdere Lightweight og MadFiber ettersom disse har carboneiker som er helintegrert i felgen og navet. Det er ekstremt lite fleks i disse hjulene, men det koster selvfølgelig en del penger.

Personlig synes jeg både Zipp 404 og Mavic Ksyrium er stive nok i massevis.